Just stir every 3-5 minutes to keep the hops suspended and exposed to fresh wort so they can lean their goodness to it.įlameout hops are hops added at, well, flameout. Homebrewers can perform something similar in their boil kettle in various ways.Ī hopstand (or steep) is similar to a whirlpool, except the wort isn't in constant motion. They use a (special) whirlpool vessel to separate the wort from the trub after the boil. Whirlpool is the name borrowed from pro brewery installations. The difference among those terms is mostly semantics. With 1 oz of Warrior your beer definitely won't lack bitterness. That way the headspace gets less disturbed (remains rich in CO2). You could dry hop by dropping the pellets through the airlock hole. Then cold crash for 1-2 days before bottling. Oxidation is bad for hop flavor/aroma.ĭry hop at the end of fermentation (say after a week or a little sooner) in "primary." Aim to leave on dry hops at room temps for 3-5 days before cold crashing. In starters I add 1/4 tsp per gallon of that plus a pinch of Zinc Chloride.Īlso, wherever possible, try to limit exposure to air (O2) when dry hopping, handling, racking, etc. I add 1/2 tsp of 50/50 Epsom Salt/DAP at the end of the boil. Or instead, use Calcium Chloride to accentuate softness like in NEIPAs.Īdd acid to drop your pH, Gypsum may not do it enough. Raise the Warrior somewhat to get your IBUs.ĭefinitely some Gypsum if you want a crisp bitterness to stand out. ![]() Stir well every 3-5 minutes without beating air into the wort. You'll get some IBUs from that (none at 150F, if you decide that temp). ![]() ![]() Instead of flameout, pay homage to her name, and whirlpool (hopstand) at 170/160F for 30'. Looks good! Here are a few ideas and process hints:
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